Look for the “outdoor furniture paint” available, it’s actually a plastic coating that will “flex” and stand up to the elements.

If you don’t use a quality products outdoors your wasting your time.

Another alternative SW Duration….$ 40 a gallon~

And remember, keeping the surface clean will prolong all outdoor finishes….

I would haul a chair down for the paint guy in a paint store to take a look. It’s worth making sure as if you use the wrong type it will just peel off.

if it is wood paint, it will stick into the wood and keep it from deteriorating, and if it is water proof, then it will keep the rain from damaging the funiture and the paint.

If the existing roof has solid sheating under the shingles, it can be as easy as removing the shingles a couple feet back from the intersection, nailing valley boards to the existing roof sheating, framing the new new roof as normal up to the point of intersection, putting in shortened rafters (“valley jacks”) between the new ridge and the valley boards, sheating the new roof, apply roof felt and valley gutter, and reshingle.

If this is an A-frame STRUCTURE, there’s a little more to it, as you’ll be removing/cutting rafters at the intersection. Still the same idea as above, but instead of valley board nailed on top of the existing roof, you’ll have a valley rafter in the same plane as the existing rafters, and each of those rafters will have to be cut to properly intersect the valley.

Here’s a page that describes the process-
http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/framing/frame_6.htm

Rafter cuts require somewhat complex compound cuts when you have intersecting rooflines. Especially when the two rooflines have different pitches (fondly refered to as a “bastard roof” by roof cutters). In fact, in framing, cutting rafters is a specialty and roof cutters are the cream of the crop of framers. If you don’t have experienced assistance, get a book like this-
“A Roof Cutters Secrets to framing the custom house” http://www.contractor-city.com/rocusetofrcu.html